Professional Dry-Erase Production Slate Clapperboard Marker
Description
A clapperboard is a device used in filmmaking and video production to assist in the synchronizing of picture and sound, and to designate and mark particular scenes or takes recorded during a production. The sharp "clap" noise that the clapperboard makes can be identified easily on the audio track, and the shutting of the clapstick can be identified easily on the separate visual track. The two tracks can then be precisely synchronised by matching the sound and movement.
Other names for the clapperboard include clapper, clapboard, slate, slate board, slapperboard, sync slate, time slate, sticks, board, and sound marker. This clapperboard is made from durable acrylic and features color sticks for aid in quick color adjustment. The sticks have magnetic inserts to insure a smart "clack" and will also keep them from opening when not in use. There are blank sections that can be written on with wet or dry erase markers signifying the Take, Scene, Roll, Production, Director, Camera, Date Night, Int/Ext Mos Filter and Sync. Slate is compatible with dry-Erase brand markers and water based markers. **Includes mini-dry erase marker and eraser. Rear of slate is blank.
Clapperboard Categories:
• Prod - This one’s pretty self explanatory and is reserved for the Title or Name of the production.
• Roll - In the golden days of Hollywood, scenes were shot on actual rolls of film. The size of the celluloid film, along with the speed of filming (aka frame rate), would dicate the approximate shooting length of each film roll. A typical roll of 35mm movie film that was shot at 24 frames per second would produce approximately 11 minutes of footage, so changing rolls was a frequent part of the filmmaking process. Keeping track of all those rolls of film is most important and the script supervisor and camera assistants would usually note that information on their logs to help editors organize and locate all scenes and takes. Nowadays, a “roll” can refer to a specific digital media card, hard disk drive, or can even specify which smartphone is recording the footage!
• Scene - This the number of a scene which usually matches up to the shooting script. A scene commonly starts with a number and has multiple angles (aka coverage) of the scene are shot, a letter designation is added to indicate the corresponding cameras or angeles. Simply put, your first scene is marked as “1”. When covering the scene from different angles, filmed seperately in different short sections, your primary camera angle is ‘a’, secondary ‘b’, tertiary ‘c’, etc. So the markings in this category would be scene ‘1a’, scene ‘1b’ and scene ‘1c’.
• Take - This category corresponds to the number of times the very same shot is recorded. As not all takes of the scene will be good enough to even bothering reviewing, noting each take becomes most helpful when the film reaches the editing room. Directors often task someone on set with the duty of tracking the best and worst takes in a log. This guarantees that “Good Takes” - usually indicated with a circle or a star on the log - are quickly found so the post production process can move along quickly. Takes are usually a consecutive number (Take 1, Take 2, Take 3 ..)
• Director - That’s pretty easy, you list the name of the Director here!
• Cameraman - This is the name of the Camera Operator, Director of Photography, or Cinematographer.
• Date - Pretty sure you this one.
• Day night - Believe it or not, many older films shot “night scenes” in broad daylight! So this was an important designation when shooting film long ago. Noting the day or night on the slate served to help the technicians properly developing techniques, techs in the lab could create a mostly convincing night effect. Though this category is not as important now, it’s still there, so circle the correct one for fun!
• Filter - A quick list of the filters placed in front of the lens is typically written here, again as reference for the folks in the lab so they are sure to process the film appropriately
Size: 11.75" x 9.75" x .75"
Weight: 13.5 oz
Important info
- Colors are designed lighter than real currency for color correction ease.
- Legal prop money is not allowed to have working holograms.
DISCLAIMER: OUR PROP MONEY IS SOLELY DESIGNED FOR TV, FILM, PHOTOGRAPHY, TRAINING AND MEDIA PRODUCTIONS. IT WILL NOT PASS AS REAL CURRENCY AND CANNOT BE MODIFIED TO LOOK EXACTLY LIKE REAL USA CURRENCY.
Shipping
All standard orders are shipped within 1 - 3 business days not including weekends and Holidays as our facility is closed these days.
Standard orders are shipped via USPS, which normally takes 2 - 5 business days for delivery after the order is shipped.
Frequently Asked Questions
How detailed is your prop money?
Our prop money is specially made to keep up with the fast growing high definition media. The details are very sharp and colors are specially made to transfer the best on HD cameras, film cameras, and photography cameras. The colors are clean and clear, not over or under contrasted so that you can have full control in post production when you are color correcting your scenes or photographs.
How do I achieve the "used" look?
If you're looking for that worn, realistic look that makes it seem like the money has been used, we recommend buying our Aged Prop Money.
All our aged prop money is dyed and weathered in-house by our team so that our clients don’t have to worry about aging their own props.
Is it illegal to buy fake money?
Purchasing fake money that is identical to US currency is illegal which is why our prop money products have their own copywritten design that is virtually indistinguishable to real money on camera. We guarantee that our prop money store products are 100% legal.
Can you supply prop money without motion picture text on it?
We go above and beyond to protect our clients by staying up to date with the latest counterfeit laws and rules.
No legitimate prop money supplier can legally supply prop money without the “This is not for legal tender” text, or the round “For Motion Picture Use Only” emblems. For an additional fee we can replace this text with your company’s name or customized text if it is within legal limits.
For complete details on realistic prop money design rules click here.
What is the difference between full print stacks and filler bundles?
The full print stacks is 100 prints wrapped with a current corresponding bank strap.
A filler bundle is 1 print on top, 1 print on the bottom and blank cream filler paper in between wrapped with a current corresponding bank strap.
Normally the full prints are used as either close ups or when the prop money is being tossed around when the bank wrap is removed. The filler bundles are normally used as a stand alone prop and remains unwrapped.
Does the ink smear when wet?
NO our high grade ink and heat drying is flawless. We also stain and dirty the props in a water based solution. The prop bills can get wet and the ink will not ever smear.
Do you custom design prop money for a production?
You bet! For a fee our team of professional graphic artists can design any kind of prints. All we need is a sample or we can collaborate it with you. Please note that request for prints that can pass as real currency to deceive a person in an unlawful manner will be quickly rejected.
*ALL OF PROPMOVIEMONEY.COM's PROP MONEY DESIGNS, ARTWORK, PHOTOGRAPHY, AND WEBSITE IS COPYRIGHTED, REGISTERED AND ALL RIGHTS ARE RESERVED. ANY UNAUTHORIZED REPRODUCTIONS OR PHOTOGRAPHY IMAGES TAKEN WITHOUT OUR APPROVED CONSENT IS CONSIDERED COPYRIGHT INFRINGEMENT AND WILL BE IMMEDIATELY REPORTED.
